Water heater maintenance in Saint Paul, MN

Every gallon of water that comes into your heater carries a little dissolved mineral. When it heats, some of that mineral drops out and settles on the bottom. Over a few years it can build into a crusty layer several inches deep. On a gas heater, the burner has to push heat through that layer, which wastes fuel and overheats the steel. On an electric heater, the lower element can get buried and burn out.

A proper flush isn't just opening the drain for a minute. We shut off the fuel or power, close the cold supply, let the tank drain, then open the cold valve in short bursts to stir up and push out the settled material. We keep going until the water runs clear. On older tanks with hardened scale, we'll tell you honestly if a flush will help or if it's past that point.

Inside nearly every tank water heater is a metal rod, usually magnesium or aluminum, screwed into the top. It's there to corrode so the tank doesn't. Water attacks the rod first, and as long as there's metal left on it, the glass lining and steel shell stay protected. Once the rod is down to bare core wire, the tank itself starts to rust from the inside.

Most rods are spent somewhere between three and six years, sooner with softened water, which is more aggressive. Replacing a rod costs a small fraction of a new heater and can add years to a tank that's otherwise sound. We pull it, show it to you, and if it's thin or pitted, we install a new one. If you've had a sulfur smell, we can fit a different rod type that won't feed it.

The temperature and pressure relief valve is the safety device that opens if the tank ever gets too hot or overpressurized. It can sit untouched for years, and minerals can freeze it shut or keep it from seating properly. A valve that won't open is a real hazard. A valve that won't close leaks water down the discharge pipe and wastes energy.

During maintenance we lift the test lever and watch it open and reseat. We also check that the discharge pipe runs down to within a few inches of the floor, isn't capped or threaded shut, and is the right size. If the valve drips after testing or doesn't move, we replace it on the spot. It's a small part with a big job.

A water heater is more than a tank. On gas models, the venting carries combustion gases out of the house, and a poorly drafting flue can push them back into the basement. We check draft at the hood, look at the vent connector for rust or gaps, and make sure the burner flame looks clean and blue. On electric models we test the elements and thermostats.

We also look at the things around the heater that tend to fail and cause damage later. That means the shutoff valve on the cold line, the gas valve and flex connector, the expansion tank if you have one, and the drain valve, which on many tanks is a cheap plastic part that can crack.

You'll get a plain summary at the end:

• Sediment flushed and how much came out
• Anode rod condition, replaced or not
• T&P valve tested and discharge pipe checked
• Venting, burner or elements inspected
• Water temperature set, usually near 120 degrees F
• Our honest read on how much life the tank has left

We'd rather tell you the truth than sell a service that won't help. If the tank is already leaking from the shell, if the anode rod is seized and the tank is well past ten years, or if heavy rust is coming from the bottom seams, maintenance won't buy much time. In those cases we'll explain the options for a replacement and what it would cost, and you decide.

For tanks that are a few years old, or newer units still covered by a manufacturer warranty, regular maintenance is the cheapest thing you can do to keep it running. Some manufacturers also expect the tank to have been looked after, so keeping a record of service can help if you ever need to make a claim.