Toilet installation in Saint Paul, MN
A new toilet should sit solid, flush strong and never rock or seep at the base. We pull the old one, check the flange and floor, and set the new toilet so it stays that way.
- Phone answered 24/7
- Saint Paul office on E 7th Street
Tell us what you see and hear. We explain the visit and the likely cost on the phone. (651) 215-2087
The short answer
Toilet installation is removing the old toilet, checking the flange and subfloor, then setting a new toilet with a fresh seal, supply line and shutoff if needed. It makes sense when a toilet is cracked, constantly running, wobbling or simply old and thirsty. A typical Saint Paul install runs $287 to $563 for labor and parts, plus the toilet, with flange repairs extra.
Choosing a toilet that fits your bathroom
Before buying, measure the rough-in: the distance from the finished wall to the center of the bolts at the base. Most are 12 inches, but older Saint Paul bathrooms sometimes have 10 or 14 inch rough-ins, and a toilet that doesn't match won't fit right. Also check the room in front of the bowl, since an elongated bowl takes more space than a round one.
Comfort-height bowls are easier on knees and backs. Two-piece models are cheaper and easy to move up stairs; one-piece toilets are simpler to clean. Kohler, American Standard and similar brands all make solid options. If you're unsure, tell us the measurements and we'll suggest a few that fit.
- Rough-in: 10, 12 or 14 inches from the wall
- Bowl shape: round for tight rooms, elongated for comfort
- Height: standard or comfort height
- Flush type: gravity, dual flush or pressure assisted
What toilet installation costs in Saint Paul
Typical Saint Paul ranges for toilet installation, labor and parts, with the toilet itself extra. We confirm the price after we see the flange and floor.
| Job | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Install a customer-supplied toiletSeal, bolts, supply line, haul-away | $287 to $563 |
| Flange repair ring or spanner flangeFor cracked or loose flanges | $97 to $243 |
| Cast iron flange replacementCut out and new flange set | $367 to $789 |
| New shutoff valveQuarter-turn valve and line | $87 to $197 |
What moves the price
- Condition and material of the flange
- Subfloor damage from past leaks
- Rough-in size and floor height changes
- One-piece versus two-piece toilet weight
- Upstairs access and tight bathrooms
- Shutoff and supply line replacements
Typical Saint Paul ranges. We confirm your price after we see the job and before work starts. See every price on one page.
How toilet installation goes, start to finish
Shut off and drain
We turn off the supply, flush the tank empty, and sponge out the remaining water from the bowl and tank.
Remove the old toilet
We disconnect the supply, remove the bolts, lift the toilet off and plug the drain to block sewer gas.
Inspect flange and floor
We check for cracks, corrosion, height issues and soft subfloor, and repair what's needed.
Set the new toilet
With a new seal and bolts, we lower the bowl straight down, shim it level and tighten evenly.
Connect and test
We attach the tank, a new supply line and shutoff if needed, then test flushes and check for leaks.
Clean up and haul away
We clean the area and take the old toilet and packaging with us.
What's under your old toilet matters most
The flange is the ring that anchors the toilet to the drain. On older homes it's often cast iron, lead and oakum or brass, and decades of water and bolts can crack or corrode it. If the flange is broken, the toilet will rock and the seal will fail, no matter how good the new toilet is.
We inspect the flange and subfloor as soon as the old toilet comes off. Minor damage gets a repair ring or spanner flange. A badly corroded cast iron flange might need to be cut out and replaced. Soft subfloor from a long-term leak needs repair before anything sits on it. Catching it now saves pulling the new toilet later.
Getting the seal and the level right
A toilet seal is a wax ring or a foam gasket with no wax that squeezes between the bowl and the flange. If the flange sits too low because new tile raised the floor, a standard ring won't seal well. We use extenders or thicker gaskets as needed so the seal is fully compressed and watertight.
Floors in old houses are rarely level. A toilet that rocks even slightly will break the seal over time. We shim it solid, tighten bolts evenly without cracking porcelain, and finish with a bead of caulk around the base where codes and your preference allow. Then we check the flush, refill and supply line connection for any drip.
What happens to the old toilet?
We drain and remove the old toilet, bag the wax and loose parts, and take it with us for disposal. Old porcelain is heavy and awkward to haul, and it can't go in regular trash pickup in many places. You don't need to deal with it.
If the shutoff valve under the tank is old and stiff, we usually recommend replacing it while the water's off. A seized valve is useless in an emergency. We also swap old braided or rigid supply tubes for a new braided line, so the new toilet doesn't depend on an old connection.
Signs it is time for toilet installation
Cracks in the tank or bowl
Hairline cracks can turn into sudden leaks. A cracked bowl or tank isn't worth repairing, so it's time for a new toilet.
Rocking or wobbling
A toilet that moves when you sit down has a loose or broken flange or a weak floor below. It will leak at the seal sooner or later.
Constant repairs
If you've replaced the flapper and fill valve more than once and it still runs or clogs, the toilet itself may be the problem.
Older, high-water toilets
Toilets from decades ago use far more water per flush than current models. A new one cuts water use every day.
Stains or soft floor at the base
Discoloration or soft flooring around the toilet means water has been seeping under the seal for a while.
Bathroom remodel or comfort upgrade
Many homeowners switch to a taller, comfort-height bowl or an elongated seat during a remodel.
Setting toilets in old Saint Paul bathrooms
In older homes around Summit Hill, Como Park and the West Side, we often find toilets sitting on cast iron flanges leaded into the drain decades ago. Those flanges corrode at the bolt slots and can crack when the old toilet comes off. Tile floors laid over older tile sometimes raise the floor height, too, so a standard seal won't reach.
Second-floor and attic bathrooms in Saint Paul's older houses bring their own challenges, from narrow stairways to subfloors weakened by years of slow seeping. Newer homes in Roseville and Eagan are usually more straightforward, with PVC flanges and standard rough-ins, but leaks there still soften particleboard subfloors. We check what's underneath before the new toilet goes down.
Where we do toilet installation
Saint Paul and the surrounding east metro. These are the busiest ZIP codes on our board; the full list has 55 neighborhoods, cities and counties.
Questions about toilet installation
Can you install a toilet I bought myself at a Saint Paul hardware store?
Yes. Many homeowners pick the toilet they like and have us set it. Bring us the box unopened if you can, so we can check for shipping damage before the old one comes out. We supply the seal, bolts and supply line and handle disposal of the old toilet.
How do I measure the rough-in before buying a new toilet?
Measure from the finished wall behind the toilet, not the baseboard, to the center of the bolts that hold the toilet down. Twelve inches is most common, but older Saint Paul homes sometimes have ten or fourteen. Buying a toilet that matches your rough-in avoids gaps behind the tank or a toilet that won't fit.
Why does my new toilet installation rock on a tile floor?
Usually the floor isn't flat or the flange sits slightly high or low. The toilet needs to be shimmed solid and the seal fully compressed. A rocking toilet will break its seal over time and leak under the floor. If yours moves, call us before the seal starts letting water through.
Is a wax ring or a foam gasket seal better for a new toilet in an older home?
Both work when installed right. Wax rings are the traditional choice and seal well on flanges at the proper height. Foam gaskets are easier to reposition and handle uneven flanges a bit better. On older homes with low flanges, we use extenders or thicker seals as needed.
Should I replace the shutoff valve when installing a new toilet?
If the valve is old, stiff or corroded, yes. Many older valves won't close fully, which makes them useless in an emergency. Swapping it while the water is already off adds little time. A new quarter-turn valve and braided supply line give the new toilet a solid connection.
Jobs that often go with toilet installation
Brands we work on in Saint Paul homes
- Kohler
- Moen
- Delta
- American Standard
- Rheem
- A. O. Smith
- Bradford White
- Navien
- Rinnai
- InSinkErator
- Zoeller
- Liberty Pumps
- Watts
- Weil-McLain
Call the Saint Paul office, day or night
A real person picks up at any hour. Tell us what you are seeing, and we will tell you what happens next and roughly what it costs.
(651) 215-2087- Phone
- Answered 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
- Office
- 289 E 7th Street, Saint Paul, MN 55101
- Headquarters
- 50666 229th Ave, Bemidji, MN 56601
- Coverage
- Saint Paul and the east metro, see all areas